Yes, I have been about this year, mostly with my glorious travel companions. From sea shore to hills to deep jungles, we went everywhere. We baked in 45-degree temperatures, squelched and waded in monsoon rains, and walked endlessly in salubrious weather.
The most significant thing about this is the subtle difference that has come over me as a traveler. Traveling has become a spiritual experience, at least in parts. It could be because I stop to observe birds, wild flowers, insects, and water droplets on blades of grass from behind my camera a lot nowadays, especially after learning the basics of macro photography. The point is in every trip, there is a moment I feel I understand the world, nature, and perhaps even God better. I feel connected. I feel integrated. I feel grateful to be here.
Who else to describe what I feel eloquently than Subramania Bharathi:
Ethanai kodi inbam vaithai iraiva
Chithinai achithudan inaithai
Angu cherum iym bhoothathu viyanula chamaithai
Athanai ulagamum varna kalanjiyamaga
Pala pala nal azhagugal chamaithai
(Roughly translated)
How many million pleasures you’ve built into this world, Lord!
You joined the divine and mundane, combined the five elements
And made this world which is a treasure trove of color
Composed with many beautiful things!
Here are some experiences that would explain what I mean.
Dive Agar
This small fishing village located about 170 kms south of Mumbai is one among many scenic beaches that dot the South Konkan coast. There’s not much to do other than play in the water, sleep in your cottage, eat in the little “ghar ghuti” (home dining) places or go for long walks through the rustic pathways that snake out in all directions.
Tourism is on the rise here, so you will find garish resorts, plastic waste piling up at the most unexpected spots and raucous tourists in big cars.
I saw several things for the first time on this trip—Ramphal (another variety of custard apple), a tiny hermit crab and barnacles.
Dive Agar Album
Nagla Block, Rajiv Gandhi National Park
This was a forest walk along a three kilometer stretch arranged by BNHS. T and I had a rollicking time on the way to the walk as we hatched our plans of tracking the silk route someday. We were met by our motley walk companions—children, parents, couples, and amateur photographers.
The forest was busy. Every insect, animal and plant was in its mating glory. We found a shed snake skin on the way. We saw moss and ferns growing like some kind of Jurassic forest. There were trees covered in bloom or branches spurting with new leaves. I found a rather singular mating ritual in the red silk cotton bugs. The male was dragging the female along while joined!
We had breakfast under a building on concrete stilts. The walk back was one of the warmest I have undertaken, as the sun climbed overhead and the day became unbearably humid. We made it to the bus without throwing up somehow and spent the rest of the trip drinking water by the gallon.
Nagla Block Album
Tadoba Andhari National Park
This jewel of Vidharbha is burning, scalding hot in summer (45 degrees C), which is when we decided to visit it. Tadoba is not yet on the wildlife map, hence the animals are unwary of human beings. And none were more unconcerned than the tiger cubs. There were three sets of them at the park.
We sighted one set of three adolescent cubs more than once. Once very thrillingly, they were the first animals we encountered as we entered the forest in the morning and they stopped us because they were lying in front of our vehicle. We watched each other for more than half an hour. It was insane!
The last day, we visited a lake at the edge of the forest. The waters had receded for the summer, leaving behind a lush world of very small plants with their almost microscopic blooms. In the tropics, life is too busy living. There seems to be no time for anything else.
Tiger @ Tadoba Album
Vadivali Lake, Kamshet
When the monsoon clouds gather like elephants overhead and rain lashes the earth, it is time to run to the Sahyadris. They are ancient but ho-hum hills during all other times of the year. But come monsoon, they become aggressively green and the rain water feeds hundreds of waterfalls everywhere.
We decided to partake of this gift of nature. Vadivali lake lies in a little known corner of the hills. It is a biggish lake with very little human habitation around. The things to do are to be outdoors, get soaked to the skin, and watch the rain pour and pour—over the grey waters, over green vegetation, and on top of hills.
We spent two such days. I don’t remember being dry or mud-free during these 48 hours. We also discovered a little waterfall that branched into two babbling brooks on one of our morning walks. We got off the trail and explored in a daze, not able to process the beauty we found around us.
I went berserk clicking water droplets. On some surfaces, they were like diamond jewels; on others, like a gypsy’s crystal ball. They were new born, delicate, containing the world around them in multicolored reflections.
Vadivali Album
Kumarakom
I have funner memories of Vembanad Kayal—we had jumped into the waters at the Kottayam Sailing Club, two or three of us in the hollow of truck tires and frolicked in the water for hours as gentle rain fell on our heads. I have redder memories of Kerala—banners, shirts, murals, and hoardings all decrying the bourgeoisie and ruling class.
So I was really not prepared for the uber-luxurious Lake Resort, smiling and service oriented boys and girls, and the good ol’ “jeeraga vellam” (water boiled with cumin seeds) served up as herbed water. I felt indignant seeing household articles such as the mortar and pestle and door arches used as decorative curios and Kathakali and Mohinyattam being pandered to raucous families over dinner. On the way to the resort, I kept looking out for revolutions, marches, and uprisings and was bitterly disappointed to find none. Kerala has obviously moved on to worship at the feet of the fatted capitalist pigs a.k.a tourists.
I enjoyed the pool in the room backyard, hammock by the lake side, and houseboat ride, but I kept feeling guilty about betraying my childhood indoctrination. So on the first opportunity, I slipped away to the village, only to be encountered by friendly, English-speaking villagers.
But as I kept scouring the undergrowth, I came across the spittle bug! The nymph froths up plant sap to resemble spittle and uses it as a protective covering while it undergoes metamorphosis!
Kumarakom Album
It is perhaps a sign of me mellowing in my old age, but I truly feel blessed for every sight, discovery and realization I have about this intensely vibrant world of ours.
The most significant thing about this is the subtle difference that has come over me as a traveler. Traveling has become a spiritual experience, at least in parts. It could be because I stop to observe birds, wild flowers, insects, and water droplets on blades of grass from behind my camera a lot nowadays, especially after learning the basics of macro photography. The point is in every trip, there is a moment I feel I understand the world, nature, and perhaps even God better. I feel connected. I feel integrated. I feel grateful to be here.
Who else to describe what I feel eloquently than Subramania Bharathi:
Ethanai kodi inbam vaithai iraiva
Chithinai achithudan inaithai
Angu cherum iym bhoothathu viyanula chamaithai
Athanai ulagamum varna kalanjiyamaga
Pala pala nal azhagugal chamaithai
(Roughly translated)
How many million pleasures you’ve built into this world, Lord!
You joined the divine and mundane, combined the five elements
And made this world which is a treasure trove of color
Composed with many beautiful things!
Here are some experiences that would explain what I mean.
Dive AgarThis small fishing village located about 170 kms south of Mumbai is one among many scenic beaches that dot the South Konkan coast. There’s not much to do other than play in the water, sleep in your cottage, eat in the little “ghar ghuti” (home dining) places or go for long walks through the rustic pathways that snake out in all directions.
Tourism is on the rise here, so you will find garish resorts, plastic waste piling up at the most unexpected spots and raucous tourists in big cars.
I saw several things for the first time on this trip—Ramphal (another variety of custard apple), a tiny hermit crab and barnacles.
Dive Agar Album
Nagla Block, Rajiv Gandhi National Park
This was a forest walk along a three kilometer stretch arranged by BNHS. T and I had a rollicking time on the way to the walk as we hatched our plans of tracking the silk route someday. We were met by our motley walk companions—children, parents, couples, and amateur photographers.
The forest was busy. Every insect, animal and plant was in its mating glory. We found a shed snake skin on the way. We saw moss and ferns growing like some kind of Jurassic forest. There were trees covered in bloom or branches spurting with new leaves. I found a rather singular mating ritual in the red silk cotton bugs. The male was dragging the female along while joined!
We had breakfast under a building on concrete stilts. The walk back was one of the warmest I have undertaken, as the sun climbed overhead and the day became unbearably humid. We made it to the bus without throwing up somehow and spent the rest of the trip drinking water by the gallon.
Nagla Block Album
Tadoba Andhari National Park
This jewel of Vidharbha is burning, scalding hot in summer (45 degrees C), which is when we decided to visit it. Tadoba is not yet on the wildlife map, hence the animals are unwary of human beings. And none were more unconcerned than the tiger cubs. There were three sets of them at the park.
We sighted one set of three adolescent cubs more than once. Once very thrillingly, they were the first animals we encountered as we entered the forest in the morning and they stopped us because they were lying in front of our vehicle. We watched each other for more than half an hour. It was insane!The last day, we visited a lake at the edge of the forest. The waters had receded for the summer, leaving behind a lush world of very small plants with their almost microscopic blooms. In the tropics, life is too busy living. There seems to be no time for anything else.
Tiger @ Tadoba Album
Vadivali Lake, Kamshet
When the monsoon clouds gather like elephants overhead and rain lashes the earth, it is time to run to the Sahyadris. They are ancient but ho-hum hills during all other times of the year. But come monsoon, they become aggressively green and the rain water feeds hundreds of waterfalls everywhere.
We decided to partake of this gift of nature. Vadivali lake lies in a little known corner of the hills. It is a biggish lake with very little human habitation around. The things to do are to be outdoors, get soaked to the skin, and watch the rain pour and pour—over the grey waters, over green vegetation, and on top of hills.
We spent two such days. I don’t remember being dry or mud-free during these 48 hours. We also discovered a little waterfall that branched into two babbling brooks on one of our morning walks. We got off the trail and explored in a daze, not able to process the beauty we found around us.
I went berserk clicking water droplets. On some surfaces, they were like diamond jewels; on others, like a gypsy’s crystal ball. They were new born, delicate, containing the world around them in multicolored reflections.
Vadivali Album
Kumarakom
I have funner memories of Vembanad Kayal—we had jumped into the waters at the Kottayam Sailing Club, two or three of us in the hollow of truck tires and frolicked in the water for hours as gentle rain fell on our heads. I have redder memories of Kerala—banners, shirts, murals, and hoardings all decrying the bourgeoisie and ruling class.
So I was really not prepared for the uber-luxurious Lake Resort, smiling and service oriented boys and girls, and the good ol’ “jeeraga vellam” (water boiled with cumin seeds) served up as herbed water. I felt indignant seeing household articles such as the mortar and pestle and door arches used as decorative curios and Kathakali and Mohinyattam being pandered to raucous families over dinner. On the way to the resort, I kept looking out for revolutions, marches, and uprisings and was bitterly disappointed to find none. Kerala has obviously moved on to worship at the feet of the fatted capitalist pigs a.k.a tourists.
I enjoyed the pool in the room backyard, hammock by the lake side, and houseboat ride, but I kept feeling guilty about betraying my childhood indoctrination. So on the first opportunity, I slipped away to the village, only to be encountered by friendly, English-speaking villagers.
But as I kept scouring the undergrowth, I came across the spittle bug! The nymph froths up plant sap to resemble spittle and uses it as a protective covering while it undergoes metamorphosis!
Kumarakom Album
It is perhaps a sign of me mellowing in my old age, but I truly feel blessed for every sight, discovery and realization I have about this intensely vibrant world of ours.
Comments
Regards,
Altaf Tyrewala
altaph@yahoo.com