“Who’s the next of kin that needs to be informed in case something happens to you?” V was only half joking. We were indeed intending to go where no man/woman/child/dog from the civilized world had ever attempted to go before. Are you familiar with Saki Naka? It is a junction in hell. It is where the trying-hard-to-be-cool-but-failing-miserably Andheri-Kurla Road meets gateway-to-hoity-toity-Powai Saki Vihar Road meets just-hold-your-breath-we-will-soon-be-in-middle-class-heaven-Ghatkopar meets seriously-blue-collar-but-builders-are-fighting-to-make-middle class Jari Mari. It is where the stench from open sewers rise to mingle with the dust from monstrous constructions, fumes from thousands of vehicles, and sweat of a million people picking their way nimbly through garbage dumps, open craters, hawkers’ wares and uneven roads. It is where if the combined road rage of all commuters were to explode at the same time, it would be as devastating as a minor H-bomb. Off this devil’s o...